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What are Your Hydroponics Plants Telling You? Featured

Your hydroponics plants might be hurting! Your hydroponics plants might be hurting!

No, you are not hallucinating…your hydroponics plants do talk to you. They send signals to you through their leaves, kind of like smoke signals. Learn their language, give your plants what they need, and they’ll give you those kind harvests you crave. Most of the time, if leaves don’t look good, it’s your plants telling you they’re lacking the essential hydroponics plant nutrients they can only get enough of via their roots. Common indicators are hydroponics leaves that are yellowing, curling, browning, drying up, or even falling off.

If your grow room environment, hydroponics hygiene, water supply, root zone, and hydroponics techniques are up to par, the problem almost has to be related to hydroponics nutrients absorption. So when you first see problems, you do the following:

Throw out your current batch of nutrients water; run a reservoir of fresh reverse osmosis water and a ¼ strength dose of Final Phase for one watering cycle.

  • Throw out the water you just used, and mix a new batch of hydroponics nutrients.
  • Clean and calibrate  your pH/ppm meter to make sure it’s accurate.
  • When mixing the new batch of nutrients, take a pH and ppm reading one hour after you mix the batch…before you run the water to your plants. Make sure pH and ppm are in the target range for your root zone media and plant growth stage.
  • Mix your nutrients at 75% strength.
  • Add 50 ppm of Cal-Mag and 70 ppm of Advanced Nutrients Revive to your nutrients water, especially if you are using coco coir, rainwater or reverse osmosis water.
  • Measure the pH and ppm of your run-off water four days after you start using your  new batch of nutrients. Compare pH and ppm to what they were at the start. If you’re seeing wild fluctuations between what you started with and what’s running out of your root zone back into your reservoir after irrigation, note that as important.
  • Monitor your leaves. New growth should be medium green, with no tip burning or yellowing, and no curling.
  • If problems are persisting, call tech support for your hydroponics nutrients manufacturer. Tell them the data you’ve gathered since you first noticed the problem.
  • Again check to make sure that hydroponics grow room temperature, light intensity, grow room humidity and other parameters are all ideal.
  • Check for signs of pests or diseases.
  • If you have a friend or business partner running a separate grow room, try handing off a couple of the problem plants. Give your buddy a couple of weeks to rehab the plants and see if the change of scenery does your plants good.
  • Follow the manufacturer’s tech support instructions to the letter, and keep the tech support people posted on how things work.
  • If the problems go away when your hydroponics plants are in your buddy’s room, or if they don’t go away from plants in your grow room, change your base nutrients to a different manufacturer.
  • Experiment with a range of ppm and pH. Stay within the 5.6-6.5 pH parameters that work best for 99% of hydroponics gardening situations, but see if small percentage changes in ppm and/or pH make a difference.
  • If you can contact whoever supplied you the seeds or clones, ask them if they’ve seen similar problems and what to do about it.

So we’ve now got you a checklist that begins to address problems your hydroponics plants are telling you about. We will talk more about specific hydroponics nutrients deficiencies in future articles. You can also take a look here to see expanded information. There will be times when your hydroponics plants need help and there’s no easy fix. Be patient and kind, and eventually you will solve hydroponics problems and get the maximum yield you deserve and long for.

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Need to know how to protect your hydroponics growing privacy? Read this.

What 3-part nutrients does every hydroponics urban garden need? Find out here

Need an expert’s advice about your hydroponics lifestyle? Email our hydroponics guru, Erik Biksa.

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Last modified on Wednesday, 29 August 2012 17:31

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